Hakone accommodation comes in two distinct flavours: modern hotels and traditional ryokan. We stayed at WPU Hakone — minimalist, comfortable, and perfectly located. It made a great base for everything we did: the ropeway, Lake Ashi, and the private onsen at Hakone Yuryo were all easy from there. If you want the full traditional Japanese stay-with-dinner-and-yukata experience, a ryokan is the alternative worth knowing about. Here's how to choose.
Where We Stayed: WPU Hakone ★★★★
WPU Hakone landed in the guide's Top 5 Stays across the entire Japan trip — "warm, stylish, and perfectly located — great value and close to the area's best onsens." That's accurate. The design is minimalist without being cold: clean lines, natural materials, the kind of restrained aesthetic that suits Hakone's mountain character. The location is the main practical advantage — positioned to make the ropeway, the lake, and Hakone Yuryo equally accessible without long transfers between them.
For a Hakone stay that's primarily about sightseeing and doing an external onsen (like Hakone Yuryo) rather than a full ryokan immersion, WPU Hakone is the right call. Great value relative to what it offers.
The Alternative: Ryokan
A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn — tatami floors, futon bedding, yukata robes, multi-course kaiseki dinner served in your room, and usually an on-site onsen included in the room rate. Hakone has some of Japan's most famous ryokan, and the experience is genuinely different from a hotel stay: slower, more ceremonial, centred around the communal rhythms of dinner, breakfast, and bathing.
The reasons to choose a ryokan over a hotel in Hakone:
- You want the full traditional Japanese inn experience — yukata, kaiseki, the whole thing
- You prefer having the onsen included in your accommodation rather than booking separately
- You're willing to spend more (ryokan with good onsen in Hakone typically run ¥30,000–80,000+ per night for two people)
The reasons to choose a hotel like WPU Hakone instead:
- You want to eat out (ryokan rates often include dinner — which is excellent but removes the option to explore local restaurants)
- You prefer a private onsen experience booked separately at Hakone Yuryo rather than shared ryokan baths
- Budget — good hotels in Hakone are significantly cheaper than equivalent-quality ryokan
Both are valid. The ryokan is a bucket-list experience for Japan; WPU Hakone gives you more flexibility and control over your stay.
Which Area of Hakone?
Hakone is spread across a wide mountain area connected by the Hakone Free Pass transport network. The main zones:
- Hakone-Yumoto — the entry point from Shinjuku, most accessible, most services, good for onsen day trips. WPU Hakone is in this area.
- Gora / Sounzan — higher up, closer to the ropeway. Quieter, more scenic, slightly less convenient for arriving/departing.
- Togendai (Lake Ashi) — lakeside, scenic, most remote. Best for those who want the lake right outside. Limited services.
For a first Hakone visit, Hakone-Yumoto is the most practical base. The Free Pass gets you everywhere in under 30 minutes.
Practical Notes
Book early for autumn. Hakone is one of Japan's most popular autumn foliage destinations. October and November accommodation books out weeks in advance, especially ryokan and weekend dates. We were there late October — book at least 4–6 weeks ahead for this period.
The Hakone Free Pass pays for itself. Whichever hotel you stay at, buy the Free Pass at Shinjuku before you travel — it covers the Odakyu train both ways plus unlimited transport within Hakone (ropeway, boats, buses, mountain railway). Without it, those costs add up quickly.
More Hakone Guides
FAQ
Should I stay at a hotel or ryokan in Hakone?
Hotel (like WPU Hakone) if you want flexibility, lower cost, and to do your onsen separately at Hakone Yuryo. Ryokan if you want the full traditional Japanese inn experience with kaiseki dinner and on-site baths — genuinely worth doing once in Japan, and Hakone is one of the best places to do it.
Is WPU Hakone good?
Yes — it was one of our Top 5 stays across the entire Japan trip. Minimalist design, excellent location, great value. Our specific recommendation for a hotel-style Hakone stay.
Where is the best area to stay in Hakone?
Hakone-Yumoto for most visitors — best transport connections, most accessible, closest to Hakone Yuryo onsen. The Free Pass connects you to everything else within 20–30 minutes.
Some links in this post are affiliate links. If you book through them, we earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
